Roofing in Elizabeth, NJ

Jersey City Roofers Pros is a licensed and insured roofing contractor working on roofs across Elizabeth. Call 2017789628 and we will walk the roofline with you before anyone climbs a ladder.

Nor'easters push wind-driven rain under the field course, and winter freeze-thaw cycles crack and lift shingles that stayed sealed all summer. Water then wicks along the felt, tar paper, and sheathing until the roof deck itself begins to rot.

Early 1900s brick rowhouses in Elmora and Peterstown still wear original slate and clay tile. We match the existing material rather than tear off a pattern that cannot be replaced.

Mid-century homes around Midtown and the West End usually need architectural shingle work instead: fresh synthetic underlayment, an ice-and-water shield at the eave, and a new drip edge to shed water past the fascia.

Salt-laden air off Newark Bay corrodes fasteners, flashing, and gutters long before the shingles wear out. Corroded pipe boots and chimney flashing are often the real source of a leak you cannot see from the ground.

• Residential roofing — we tear off three-tab shingle, asphalt shingle, wood shake, and cedar shake down to the decking, then re-nail plywood or OSB sheathing.
• Roof repair — we relay curled or split shingles, hand-seal lifted courses with roof cement, and reset step flashing at a valley, rake, or hip where it has pulled free.
• Roof replacement — we lay a self-adhered ice-and-water shield under the starter course, run a starter strip along the eave, and set staggered courses at the right head lap.
• Flat and low-slope systems — we refit EPDM, TPO, and PVC membrane, patch modified bitumen and built-up roof sections, and recoat where UV degradation has caused alligatoring.
• Commercial roofing — we service rooftop equipment, clear ponding water at the scupper, and check parapet coping and counter-flashing where wind uplift pulls at the membrane.
• Gutter installation — we hang gutters and downspouts sized to the roof area so water leaves the roofline instead of backing up under the drip edge and soaking the soffit.
• Attic ventilation — we balance a ridge vent with a soffit vent, check the vapor barrier and insulation, and pull out material that has trapped moisture against the roof deck.
• Roof inspection and estimate — we document granule loss, hail damage, sag, and end-of-life wear in photos, then price the work line by line for your insurer.

On a mansard or gambrel, the lower pitch hides a steep upper plane, and a storefront canopy or awning traps water against the wall. We check the purlin, batten, and counterbatten framing that carries the slate before we nail anything down.

Standing-seam panel and metal panel work needs an exposed-fastener check and the right gasketed screw. Corrugated panel and concrete tile roofs need a self-adhered or torch-down detail at every penetration.

Older flat sections are tar, asphalt, and bitumen layered over roofing felt or tar paper that has dried brittle, so we patch the membrane rather than overlay it and hide the rot.

A tear-off on a two-story rowhouse means staging a dumpster, setting a ladder and scaffold on the safe side of the overhang, and clipping each crew member to a safety harness anchored above the eave.

Our roofers cut shingles with a roofing square and a nail gun fed by an air compressor, then strip the old field course with a pry bar and roofing shovel.

Debris goes into that dumpster, and the whole tear-off follows the local building code for fastening schedules and wind uplift.

We stagger every course, lap the joints correctly, and back-nail the rake, verge, and gable ends, because that is what keeps wind-driven rain out.

• Granule loss — bare patches on asphalt shingle mean the mat is drying out and the next hail event will bruise or split the field course.
• Sag along the roofline — a dip near the ridge beam or a bowed rafter usually means water has been wicking into the truss and joist ends.
• Ice dam and snow guard — packed snow at the eave pushes meltwater back under the courses, so a snow guard keeps the snow from sliding.
• Chimney and boot flashing — dried caulk and cracked mastic around counter-flashing let water seep into the chimney chase and past the pipe boot.
• Clogged gutter and downspout — when debris backs water up past the drip edge, it peels paint from the soffit and rots the fascia behind it.
• Daylight at the ridge vent — a gap in the roof deck, damp insulation, or a running attic fan points to ventilation trouble, not just a leak.

We set adhesive under the ridge cap, tool a polyurethane sealant at the chimney, and apply a reflective coating on low-slope sections where summer sun speeds UV degradation. Good waterproofing and weatherproofing start at the valley and the apron flashing, not the shingles.

Skylight and dormer tie-ins, a drip edge that overhangs the fascia, and ventilation that balances the soffit vent with the ridge vent make the difference between a roof repair that holds and one that leaks again. Call 2017789628 for a free roof estimate.